The underfloor and scheduling the works

With regards of the construction of the existing underfloor a few things should be considered when choosing the type of wooden flooring and accessories for your home:

Concrete: although most modern homes have a damp proof membrane underneath the concrete construction, to avoid any residue moist from the concrete entering the wooden floor a combi-underlayment (DPM and sound-insulation underlayment) should be used when installing the floor floating.
(N.B. on second floors with concrete it normally isn't necessary to us a DPM, but it doesn't do any harm also)
Vinyl (or plastic tiles): to prevent sweating of the tiles underneath wooden flooring its best to use the same combi-underlayment as mentioned above.
Chipboard plywood and existing floorboards: never use a DPM underlayment. This could cause condensation and rotting of the underfloor or even joists. A foam underlayment is most suitable, depending on the amount of sound-insulation needed.
Joists: in most circumstances no underlayment has to be used.

Always make sure the underfloor is level (2mm gentle sloop per meter is allowed, but no sudden dips or bumps), of good quality and suitable strong enough to hold the new floor covering. Preparations to correct/increase the quality should be made well in advance of the installation of the wooden floor, especially when new concrete/screed is used. Rule of thumb here is: it will take on average 30 days per inch (2.5cm) of concrete to dry out sufficiently.
New concrete or screed floors should be checked on moist-content before installation of the wooden floor takes place, even when a DPM in the underlayment is used. This is also the case if a moist-problem is suspected in older concrete and any other type of underfloor.

Wood-engineered floors are recommended with this kind of radiation heating systems. Solid floors can be installed safely, but are restricted in width of the boards, don't use boards wider than 110 120mm. Wider than this could cause noticeable shrinkage and even cupping, splitting of the wood.

Also very important before installation of the Natural Wooden Flooring can start is to make sure all other works are well finished (especially “wet-works”: newly plastered walls can take days to release all the moist from the materials and from the room).

And don't forget the effect unfinished outside work can have on newly installed wooden floors.

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